Discovering My Love for Taormina
Tucked in the east coast of Sicily, the resort town of Taormina offers solace to visitors who make the effort to travel to its region: a historic hamlet nestled on the hills, a constant aroma of Sicilian cuisine, welcoming locals, and picturesque views of the Ionian Sea.
Taormina was never on my list of top destinations to visit. In fact, I had never heard of Taormina until I found out I had to travel to there for work. The so-called “research” I did on getting to this secluded destination caused me more frustration: 2 flight legs and almost 2 hours to and from the airport for a stay of only three days. Little did I know, it was worth all the trouble.
My journey of awe began with a taxi ride from Catania airport to Taormina, where the infamous volcano, Mount Etna, was visible at a distance. Still active today, Mount Etna is the largest of three active volcanos in Italy and has the highest peak south of the Italian Alps. Greek mythology suggests the importance of Mount Etna as the prison of the monster Typhon, imprisoned by Zeus. Others believe Mount Etna to be the forge of Hephaestus, blacksmith of the gods. However, in our world, reverence for Mount Etna was made official when it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2013.
I was told that on a clear day, you could see the peak of Mount Etna from the Teatro Antico di Taormina, the ruins of a Greek amphitheater in the heart of the town. This was not the case for me on the day I visited the amphitheater, but the view of the Sicilian coastline through brick archways was an acceptable and breathtaking replacement. This amphitheater, the second largest in Sicily, is picturesque due to its natural surroundings and panoramic views though the well-preserved back walls of the stage.
As I walked the main strip, called Corso Umberto, I admired all the shops, restaurants and churches around me. It felt like I was in an Italian movie as I strolled past stone walls and under archways to discover a piazza overlooking the sea, or followed a narrow cobblestone path that led to a public garden. Artists took over hidden staircases as galleries for their paintings. Shopkeepers casually peddled kitchen wares, including a lemon soap that seems to be one of Sicily’s signature souvenirs.
Halfway through Corso Umberto, I stopped by the Q Lounge Bar (off one of the many staircases going down) for a simple lunch: pizza margherita and a glass of pinot grigio under a shaded banquet. During lunch, I reviewed my map and checked Instagram for some “casual” research on Taormina. It just so happened that a local cannoli shop commented on one of my photos, asking me to stop by. Perfect!
Known for holding the title of creating the world’s biggest cannoli, La Pignolata Guiness Cannoli is a must-try. Their cannolis are huge, yet somehow the balance between the ricotta and sugar is just right. The shopkeepers also introduced me to another Sicilian specialty of pistachio paste that surprisingly tasted sweet, like a chocolate spread, yet it does not contain any sugar. A nice compliment to the cannoli!
While most people opt to stay in the central strip of Taormina in the hills, I stayed at the Mazzaro Palace on the shore below. A modern, resort hotel with excellent customer service and direct access to the beach at Mazzaro Cove, the Mazzaro Palace is ideally located at the foot of the funicular, which brings you straight up the hill to the “downtown” area of Taormina.
When dinner time loomed, I met with colleagues at Cinque Archi, located along the arches next to the baroque-styled Chiesa di San Giuseppe, and overlooking the Piazza IX Aprile. Our suave, personable server guided us through a seafood-heavy menu, highlighting some fresh catches of the day and their preparation techniques.
“Sicilian cooking is a little different Italian cooking,” he said. “We are influenced by the sea, so we share with other fisherman, who also know this sea.” Although it has some Italian roots, Sicilian cuisine is known to include elements from neighboring countries such as Spain, Greece, France and the Middle East. Indeed, all of us were very content with our seafood dishes!
Before heading back to the hotel, a pastry shop decorated like a gift-wrapped present in blue, caught my eye. A pastry shop of Sicily, Irrera 1910’s sells decadent pastries and cakes, as well as irresistible gelato flavors. Pistachio is always my weakness, so the nutty flavor mixed with sugary cream was my blissful dessert.
On my last day, I took a picture of the sunrise casting its light on the natural beauty of my surroundings. My heart was full of sadness for leaving this charming town, yet thankful for discovering an unforgettable love of Taormina.
Arrivederci Taormina, mi amore!
~T~
P.S. Check out my review of my hotel room at the Grand Hotel Mazzaro Sea Palace.